LAReview

The Ruby Fruit

Beyoncé performed at the Super Bowl, Apple released the iPhone 5, and Sharknado was the undisputed king of American cinema. The year was 2013—and it also happened to be the last time a lesbian bar existed within LA city limits. Before 2023, at least. As ridiculous and confounding as that decade-long drought was, it no longer seems worth dwelling on. Because The Ruby Fruit is here, and it’s fantastic. 

This sapphically-inclined natural wine bar in Silver Lake is already much more than a spot to sip funky riesling. It’s a community center, a queer space, a messy late-night hangout, and during lunch, a bright and welcoming diner with excellent comfort food.    

If you’re planning your first trip to The Ruby Fruit, go at night. That’s when this neighborhood wine bar transforms into a legitimate block party filled with first dates, married dates, neighbors, bandmates, and various people talking about podcasts. Since the interior is small—there’s only a wrap-around bar and a handful of tables—by around 7pm every night (and we mean every night) the party starts to spills onto the sidewalk, and then into the parking lot. The crowd definitely tilts social as the night goes on—this might be the first wine bar where we’ve accidentally left our credit card—but a great time here is not solely dependent on intoxication levels. There’s a long list of non-alcoholic options, including beer, tonics, wine, and spritzes, which are what many people here are drinking. Some are even eating, too (mostly hotdogs, which is pure camp, and everyone here knows it). But if you do want to have a full meal at The Ruby Fruit, we recommend swinging by at lunch when things are calmer and the menu is larger.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

The Ruby Fruit review image
The Ruby Fruit review image
The Ruby Fruit review image
The Ruby Fruit review image
The Ruby Fruit review image

The Ruby Fruit fills up at lunch. You might even have to wait a few minutes for a table during the rush. But overall, the setting is conducive to sitting, chatting and eating, then chatting some more about how delicious the food is. The menu is mostly diner classics (tuna melts, breakfast sandwiches, curly fries, etc.), but tweaked in ways that’ll make you perk up and mutter “oh wow” under your breath. The tuna melt is served open-faced on milk bread, topped with shaved curls of celery and crumbled potato chips. The breakfast sandwich involves a stack of griddled mortadella on a salty pretzel bagel. And those curly fries, well, they arrive covered in gooey, molten raclette, crispy pieces of speck, and pickled red onions. The second they hit the table, we immediately texted a friend, “what are you doing right now? Come eat with us.” Partially because we needed help finishing them, but mostly because we wanted an excuse to stay at The Ruby Fruit longer.

That’s the power of this place. Yes, there’s great food here, but the line out the door is made up  of people who just want a chance to be themselves for a few hours. A chance to be gay, be loud, be quiet, be hungry, and be thankful that sentences like “LA doesn’t have any lesbian bars anymore” are a thing of the past.

Food Rundown

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

M.E.C. Sandwich

If you see us at The Ruby Fruit before noon, we’ll be eating this. There are only five ingredients—fried egg, griddled mortadella, cheddar, ketchup, and a salty pretzel bun—and no others need be invited to the party. She’s perfect just the way she is.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Loaded Raclette Fries

We didn’t realize a bowl of curly fries could induce such a publicly audible gasp until this dish hit the table. Topped with melted raclette, crispy speck, pickles, red onions, and mostarda, there is a lot going on here, but somehow it all works. This is one of the most unique bowls of fries we’ve ever eaten and one of the best.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Smoked Mushrooms And Faro

The words "mushrooms and farro'' don't always grab our attention over fries and tuna melts, but this might sneakily be the most memorable dish here. With little piles of braised greens, sprouts, fermented kraut, and pickled eggs arranged on top, it arrives looking like some sort of agricultural painting palette. Be sure to mix it all together with the sherry shio koji dressing and homemade hot sauce hiding at the bottom.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Grilled Chicken Sandwich

The fried chicken sandwich has had its moment, but we’re officially petitioning for the grilled chicken sandwich to take its place. Or, at least Ruby Fruit’s version. We love this sandwich because even with all its toppings—mayo, pickles, cabbage, and fresno chile vinegar, —the star of the show is the moist, slightly smoky chicken and the soft potato bun slowly absorbing its juices.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Tuna Melt

Making a tuna melt stand out is not easy, but The Ruby Fruit has done it. The mayo-y tuna salad arrives covered in gooey, melted Cheddar, Old Bay seasoning, strands of shaved celery, and crumbled potato chips for good measure. This is pure comfort on a plate, and whenever reality does that thing where it becomes completely overwhelming, you’ll find us ordering one.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Hot Dog

Served only at night, this is our go-to snack when that fourth glass of Barbera hits. It’s served Danish-style, which means creamy remoulade, sweet pickles, ketchup, mustard, and crispy shallots on top. It’s a salty, tasty little treat and considering how many people are crammed inside this place, being able to eat it while on your feet is crucial.

The Ruby Fruit review image

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Olive Oil Cake

Is the solo dessert lunch a thing yet? Well, it should be, and this olive oil cake—moist, spongy, and topped with a sweet seasonal fruit jam—is proof. If you see us order a second one of these by ourselves, mind your own business. It’s called a solo lunch dessert.

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