Darjeeling Express

In most cases big chef names don’t matter when it comes to our job of recommending restaurants. Except for certain spots, like Darjeeling Express. At the Indian restaurant in Kingly Court, owner Asma Khan is an integral part of creating the warm, friendly atmosphere that makes this spot so excellent. Even though we could also write several haikus about how soft the paneer korma is and eat the keema toastie seven days a week, it’s still impossible to mention a visit without bringing her up.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Darjeeling Express has wildly outgrown its original intimate supper club roots, when dinners were hosted in Asma’s home. But it hasn’t lost its homely feel. Asma still walks around the bird of paradise plant-filled restaurant, welcoming guests, offering to bring raita to cool the excellently spicy Bengali aloo dam, and making us feel like we’re eating this top-tier meal at our really fun, really popular friend's house. And it’s not just Asma who’s friendly. The servers make conversation that surpasses the ‘still or sparkling’ chat and ventures into questions about your day (the uncut version). The warm, terracotta room and intimate booths turn a casual lunch into a two-hour affair, and an after-work dinner into a stay-until-closing kind of night.

While the whole ‘dinner party at a friend's house’ energy is present no matter the time of day, lunch is a very different experience to the set-menu dinner. The colourful thali is a highlight reel of Darjeeling Express’ best dishes. There’s still some choice and happily, it’s an edible pick your own adventure where every scenario is going to be good. But one thing you won’t find on the dinner menu is the standout spicy, meaty keema toastie which is only on at lunchtime. Like most things at Darjeeling Express, it’s worth fighting through Oxford Circus crowds for.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Keema Toastie

This spicy, meaty, keema-filled toastie is incomparably better than anything that's seen a George Foreman. It’s cut into four perfect three-bite squares, with adorable little grill marks on them. The peppery, moist mutton mix softens the inside of the white toast while leaving the outside crispy and golden.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Puchkas

We love these fun little refreshing shots—the wheat shells are filled with the perfect ratio of chickpeas and potato to tangy and tart tamarind water.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Prawn Malaikari

A silky, orange-hued curry sauce that’s equal parts savoury and sweet from the coconut milk. It’s creamy, it’s filled with tender, meaty prawns, and it’s perfectly moppable with their aloo paratha.

Kala Channa

This black chickpea number is comforting, peppery, and ever so slightly nutty. The chickpeas have a nice crisp to them, while maintaining a buttery, soft interior once you bite in.

Paneer Korma

The paneer in this korma is unbelievably soft. The mild cheese coated in the creamy coconut-heavy curry is a winning combination. It’s one of the best vegetarian curries in the city.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Royal Thali Menu

A dinner-only set menu that arrives in a silver platter, this has good parts, great parts, and excellent-to-the-point-of-eating-in-silence parts. Whatever option you choose will be great, but if we had to pick between the first katori—which you will have to do—go for the peppery, wholesome kala channa. It’s one of the best versions we’ve had of this vegetarian black chickpea curry. This meal will not only satisfy you, its portion size will challenge you. If you manage to finish it all, we salute you. And if you don’t, take it home—future you will thank you.